Project Marquesas v1.1 - Logbook Entry

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9/3/2006 7:00:00 PM
Bora Bora
The last island we visited in the Societies

Ra'iatea, Ta'haa and Bora Bora

Ra'iatea and Ta'haa are both islands with steep coastal fall offs, so not very convenient for anchoring.

By now we have been gone from French Polynesia for 3 weeks so it is about time to get you all up to date on our trip, let's start with our 2 unexpected last 2 weeks in the Society Islands.

Most of the time there is a plan, but that doesn't mean one has to stick to it... and more than often it has something to do with weather - like this time. There was another weather low coming our way when we wanted to leave Tahiti for the longer passage to the Cook Islands. Well we did not want to start into such strong winds after being at anchor for so long so we decided to wait it out but at least move to the other islands in the Societies.

After a night passage we arrived in Ra'iatea in the hopes to still see our friends Toya and Steve on "Cheers". We tried to call them on the VHF but were out of luck. As you know the VHF is basically our phone, except that everybody around can listen in... so no nasty or personal talks about the others? Well a boat by the name of "Esprit" answered and told us that "Cheers" had moved on to Bora Bora already, but also informed us that our friends from "Blue Sky" had told them about us - oh, oh hopefully only good things... nothing stays anonymous in the cruising community. To make a long story short we spent the next 2 weeks with "Esprit" - Chay, Katie and Jamie (9). The boys hit it off right away and really enjoyed each others company. They even did some school together and a few sleepovers were much enjoyed by everybody, it's always a special thing to them.

Ra'iatea and Ta'haa are both islands with steep coastal fall offs, so not very convenient for anchoring. The sailing charter companies "Sunsail" and "Moorings" therefore have installed moorings in most of the anchorages which also "regular" cruisers can rent. So here a short review of our route around these three islands.

"Baie Faaria": a nice bay on the east side of Ra'iatea, with steep, lush, green hills and the only accessible river bed in French Polynesia. We took a short trip up the river with a stop at the botanical garden. A very nice local, named Alfred, took us on a tour explaining each plant and guiding us around - in exchange we bought some of his handmade shell jewelries. In the afternoon we took a trip to one of the motus right at the pass along the corral reef. All three boys enjoyed a swim and play in clear, warm water again.

"Baie Apu": on the South tip of Ta'haa, the Taravana Yachtclub just recently was taken over by Richard, an American who cruised with his family more than 30 years ago, getting "hung up" in Bora Bora. His son Maui now runs it getting it into cruising shape for the next season with showers, laundry facilities, internet, etc. for some fees, understood. In the evening we met up with a few yachties for a happy hour and delicious meal at the yacht club's restaurant. The next day Robert took the opportunity of the stronger winds and motivated himself for a windsurfing day. Unfortunately it was a short lived joy since only 15 minutes into it he broke his boom. On top of it he had to swim a good way back since we could not see him - it wasn't his day, let me tell you that!

"Baie Tapauamau": To escape the strong swell and winds we moved up to an anchorage on the Eastside of the island. For two straight days it poured and there was no way we were able to go on land. So the boys took turns playing, doing crafts and watching movies between "Lawur" and "Esprit". Like most of the other nights we all had dinner together, Katie and I taking turns on cooking - a great deal!

"Marina Apooiti": This is were our ways with "Esprit" split the first time, the 3 of them went off to Bora Bora and we headed back to Ra'iatea to find a new boom for Robert's windsurfer. Much to our surprise we were successful so he hopes to have a chance to go surfing again in Tonga. Originally we had planned to leave for the Cooks the next day - you guessed right, we didn't. We are building up a reputation, aren't we?! Chay kept telling us how beautiful Bora Bora is, well it doesn't take much to convince the Schmid's and it was only 30 miles away. So we changed our route and tucked in to sit out another low coming around in Bora Bora.

In retrospect we could have left since the winds weren't as strong as predicted and the days in Bora Bora were rainy and foggy, so we couldn't do much. The kids had fun though playing and swimming also with the boys from "Diva" (a Brazilian/German boat) and swinging off their spinnaker pole. One evening a whole group of yachties got together for Happy Hour at the Bora Bora Yachtclub, and we enjoyed spending a few evenings with our friends Peter and Janet Lee on "Seeker.

In overall the 2 weeks were quite rainy and not the "paradise" one knows from postcards and brochures. It's amazing how much the sun makes the water blue and clear, keeps everything dry and the "mood barometer" on high.

It was very nice though to have met the crew on "Esprit" and spend some time with them as well as start our passage together. They had to be in Tonga 10 days later though and we had not made up our mind where we would stop along the way yet- so no plan to revise, one thinks?! We are looking forward to seeing them in Tonga soon again.

Keep us informed what's going on in your lives - till next time

Big hugs from all the 4 Schmids - Niki, Robert, Sebastian and Benjamin

TheSchmids Family Sailing on Lawur --------------------------------------------------------------------------- !!! PLEASE DON'T INCLUDE ORIGINAL WHEN REPLYING TO REDUCE DOWNLOAD TIME !!!

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